How to buy a container without regretting it
Most people buy one shipping container in their life, so it pays to know the four decisions that actually matter: the size, the grade, where it will sit, and how the truck will get there. Get those right and the rest is paperwork.
Size is about the job, not the price tag. A 20ft container holds the contents of a typical three-bedroom house and fits on a standard tilt-tray, which is why it outsells everything else. A 40ft doubles the floor for well under double the money but needs far more room to deliver. A 10ft is for tight sites — and usually costs more than a 20ft, because it is cut down from a bigger box. A high cube adds about 30cm of height for anyone who will work or stack tall inside.
Grades, explained honestly
Container grades are where buyers get caught, because the same word means different things to different sellers. Here is how we use them.
New (single-trip). Built overseas, loaded once for the voyage to Australia, then sold. Straight panels, fresh paint, clean floors. See new containers.
Used, cargo-worthy. A container that has worked in shipping service, has been inspected, and is sold wind and watertight with doors that open and seal properly. Expect dents, scratches and surface rust. This is what most people should buy for storage. See used containers.
As-is (sometimes called B-grade). Cheaper, sold as seen, and not sold watertight. It may have holed floors, stiff doors or rust through the roof. Fine for steel, fencing gear and anything that lives outside anyway; the wrong buy for furniture, feed or tools.
You will also see "WWT" (wind and watertight) used by some sellers as a grade name of its own. Ask any seller exactly what their grade includes, and ask for photos of the actual unit rather than a stock image. We name the grade on every quote and send photos on request before delivery.
What to check on any container, from anyone
Stand inside with the doors closed: pinholes of daylight mean holes. Walk the floor for soft spots. Swing both doors — they should move with one hand and close evenly onto the rubber seals. Look at the corner posts and the bottom rails for rust that has gone through rather than just stained the paint. Check the lock box and handles work. Our new vs used guide walks through the full five-minute check, and our scam guide covers the fake-seller warning signs worth knowing before you pay anyone for anything.
Where it goes and how it gets there
A container needs firm, roughly level ground and something under the four corner castings — sleepers or concrete blocks are the usual setup, no slab required. The truck needs a clear path about 3.5m wide, headroom for the tray to tilt, and a straight run to the drop spot. Every site is different, which is why delivery is quoted with the container rather than published as a rate: it depends on the distance, the access and which truck the job needs. The details are on our delivery page, and if you are not sure whether to hire or buy, the break-even guide does the sums.
